The Back Story:
Sometimes a wine has to be forced onto me for me to have to try it. That doesn’t mean that someone is holding me down and forcing me to sip from a glass, of course, just that I wouldn’t have ever spent the money on it myself.
Gewurztraminer is one like that. From the first time I was ever burned by a flabby, rotten, saccharine-sweet Gewurz, sitting so innocently, so golden-deliciously pretty in its glass, I’ve been wary of its devilish charms. It really is like the succubus of the wine world, if there were occasionally good-hearted succubi (or whatever fan-fiction plot twist there exists that would make this metaphor come together in a non-M. Night Shyamalan sense).
Fortunately, I have people around me who take the risks with this grape, weeding out the delightful from the gut-churning and rewarding me with the fruits of their labor. The Durkheimer Feuerberg Gewurztraminer Kabinett is one such wine. From Vier Jahreszeiten, which, from what I can gather on the Google, is more famous as a hotel than a winery, this Gewurztraminer that managed to intrigue me is, of course, from the heart of Germany.
The appearance of the wine is a deep gold, though it has a very light green tint at its depth. Swirl suggests a medium viscosity.
The nose of the wine is almost exclusively floral with notes of jasmine and rose. There is a very slight apricot as well as a citrus scent. The alcohol is basically nonexistent on the nose.
The mouth feel of the wine is somewhat full and creamy, though the acidity feels just a bit low.
The flavor of the wine is fairly typical, albeit more intense, for a Gewürztraminer. It has an exclusively floral attack, giving way to overripe tropical fruits on the mid-palate. The finish is a fantastically bright lavender. There’s a minor sweetness to this wine, and it almost tastes like it needs a bit higher acidity to counter it. The alcohol, at 11.5%, supports the flavor very well.
For the Casual Drinker:
This is one of those sweeter whites that really suits a beginner’s palate. It’s got a beautiful floral characteristic as well as ripe fruits combined with just enough residual sugar to give the whole thing a full, pungent flavor. If you’ve got a friend who’s more into red wines, this won’t please their palate, but anyone who is a fan of off-dry whites and dessert wines should enjoy this, at least unless Gewurztraminer simply isn’t your thing.
If you were ready to write off Gewurztraminer as a hopeless grape destined for the White Zin crowd, this one might keep you around a bit longer. 6/10
In Case You Missed It:
Wine: Durkheimer Feuerberg Gewurztraminer Kabinett
Producer: Vier Jahreszeiten
Region: Pfalz, Germany
Varietal(s): 100% Gewurztraminer
Residual Sugar: unknown
Purchased at: A Southern Season, Chapel Hill, North Carolina